On the team bus back to the hotel, striker Mohammed Nasser and midfielder Nashat Akram talk business. Both have negotiated their way out of Iraq: Mohammed to Apollon Limassol in Cyprus, Nashat to Al Shabab in Saudi Arabia. The key, they say, is getting an agent. “Most Iraqis don’t have one but it’s crucial because he can drop you in any country,” says Nashat.

While in Europe some agents are viewed as leeches, for Iraqis they are the only hope of escape – even if they make grandiose claims that won’t be fulfilled. “No one can see me play in Cyprus,” complains Mohammad. “So I sacked my agent. I have one at the moment, an Iranian, and he’s promised me a top-four club in Greece, England or Spain.”

Nashat, too, was promised a top-four club in Europe. What he got was a visit from Sunderland, who allegedly sent scouts to check him out. “Iraqis can play anywhere in the world, but it would be a dream to play for Roy Keane. I sent them my DVD and, Inshallah [God willing], I’ll hear something.”

Captain Younis Mahmoud is hot property, but the young striker, top-scorer in the star-filled Qatari league and scorer of 30 goals in 49 internationals, is unlikely to go to Europe soon. “Of course I want to play in England or France,” he says, “but my family is my priority and if I sign for a club in Europe, I can’t take my family. In Qatar, it’s no problem: they say ‘Bring everyone!’”

Not everyone is lucky enough to get out. Second-choice goalkeeper Ahmed Ali is one of four players who ply their trade in the Iraqi league with Al Zawraa in Baghdad. Ali’s day goes something like this:

“I wake up at 9am, I go to practice at 3pm, go home at 6pm, lock the door and don’t go out.” Suggest that he must have some security at games and the players around him howl with laughter. “I earn $100, a bodyguard gets $1000. I’m not David Beckham! My friend was shot dead during a game once, and they also dropped bombs, five of them, mortars I think, onto the field. It’s very dangerous.”

For those who remain in Iraq, there’s only one safe destination: the northern Kurdish region and its capital Erbil. Although in the West, we’re bombarded daily with images of destruction in Iraq, most of the violence is around Baghdad. The Kurdish region is booming. For a decade the Kurds have had a measure of self-rule with their regional government taking care of security. Property prices are rocketing, shopping malls are being thrown up and there’s little sectarian violence. When FourFourTwo visited Erbil in January, we discovered something that could have been out of a Pentagon wet dream. Sunni, Shia, Kurd and Christian living side my side, imbued with a self-confidence to look to the future. Strangers would shake our hands and thank “Mr Blair” while a twice-weekly flight on Austrian Airlines now runs between Erbil and Vienna. They even have their own tourism minister.

With Baghdad so unstable, the league has been scaled down and moved to the Kurdish areas. Which is good news for some. Erbil FC, a previously mediocre club, can now pick off Iraq’s best players and are dominating the local scene. They won the championship last season.

Assistant coach Rahim Hamed moved to Erbil when he received one death threat too many. “I got a letter that said we will kill your children and… make something… with my daughter. They fired at my house twice. So I moved to Erbil. I’m Shia. I don’t care, I’m Muslim and Iraqi. But now I sit in a small flat in a dirty area. It’s expensive. My rent is more than my brother’s rent in Holland.”

For all the hardship, he doesn’t have the idolised view of Saddam-era Iraq that many now have. Then again, he has good reason. Rahim was Iraq’s star striker in the 1980s and played at the 1986 World Cup sporting a large perm in honour of his hero, Kevin Keegan. He saw first-hand the brutality of the Hussein clan. Uday, Saddam’s bloodthirsty son, installed himself as head of the Olympic Committee and ruled it with his father’s uncompromising iron fist. If the team played badly, he’d threaten to chop off the striker’s legs. If training didn’t go well, he’d lock them in a cage. When the team failed to reach USA 94, he made them play with a concrete ball. Failure to qualify in 2002 resulted in the players having their feet whipped. Stories trickled out from the few sportsmen who managed to defect, but the true horror of Uday’s rule only came to light when the US stormed Iraq’s Olympic HQ in 2003. In the basement they found a rack and a medieval torture device used to rip open a man’s anus.

“You knew that if you didn’t play well, Uday would do something bad,” says Rahim, running his hands through his hair. “After one game he shaved everybody’s hair. That’s when I lost my perm.”

The Iraqi team bus pulls through Amman’s city limits, rocking to ear-splitting Arabic music. The players dance and shout in delight as a song by Iraqi singer Hussam Al Rassam starts up. The only thing you can hear over the sound of the music is the sound of laughter. Jorvan surveys the scene and gives a wry smile. “We have to give the Iraqi people a good mirror. Inside the national team there are no differences between Shia and Sunni. I was asked, how can you coach Iraq? I said ‘I don’t have ammo, no grenades, no M45, no axe.’ I’d like victory to bring peace to Iraq. They don’t have to pay me if I can help bring peace.”

The next day, Iraq beat Palestine 1-0 before putting Syria to the sword 3-0. The tournament ends with a game against arch-rivals Iran, who, spurred on by the boos of the 8000-strong Iraqi support, win 2-1. After the match, Nashat consoles his team-mates while Younis – topless and bearing a tattoo of Iraq on his left arm – harries the players to thank the fans. Mohammed Nasser is distraught, in tears, unable to speak. Finally he chokes out what he wants to say: “The Asian Cup, we still have the Asian Cup.”

Their opening game a week later is a shaky 1-1 draw with Thailand. Then Iraq pull off the shock of the tournament, beating Australia 3-1. Vietnam fall in the quarters, then South Korea in the semis, sparking celebration and tragedy back home.

On July 29, the Lions of Mesopotamia stride out into the Bukit Jalil National Stadium in Jakarta to face Saudi Arabia. Younis is the hero, heading the game’s only goal and sparking joyous scenes. Even the neutrals celebrate Iraq’s victory as if it were their own and the world’s press hail the achievement as one of sport’s great romantic stories.

Back home, the fear of attack isn’t enough to dampen the mood. Crowds celebrate from Erbil to Basra and bullets fly once more, this time with no reprisals. Increased security measures mean just seven people are killed by insurgents, but it would have been many more had police not averted an attempted suicide bombing in Baghdad. The risk of such activity means celebrations on the team’s return home are regrettably subdued, the PM’s reception held in the heavily-fortified green zone in the centre of Iraq, away from most civilians.

One person who isn’t here is the hero, Younis. “I wish I could go back to Baghdad to celebrate, but who will secure my life?” asks the captain.

Typically, every silver lining has a cloud. Jorvan quits after the match, despite pleas from fans, players and even the PM. “If my contract was for six months and not for two, they would have had to take me to the hospital for crazy people,” he explains.

Replacing the coach is the least of Iraq’s problems. This generation of footballers is likely to be the last to escape the chaos that grips their country. With a piecemeal league, thousands dying every month and thousands more fleeing, no one can see where the stars of the future will come from. “How can they come through? Where can they train?” asks Jorvan. “They will miss one or two generations because of the war. How can they develop sport in Iraq? Did you hear about the boys from taekwondo? It could happen with any player here.”

The fate of the “boys from taekwondo” illustrates the dangers any young sportsmen and women face in Iraq today. In 2006, 15 athletes aged between 18 and 26 were kidnapped on their way to a training camp in Jordan. A year later, and hours before the Iran-Iraq West Asian Championship game, their remains were found in a ditch near Ramadi. All had been shot in the head.